Another day of travel karma. From Guyuan on a different airline with nicely solid engines into Xi’an pronto, so an earlier train for the planned overnight in Chengdu. But wait, what’s this! This train actually goes onto Leshan, and quick as a flash the carriage supervisor scans my passport into her phone, takes cashless payment for the fare difference, and gives me the QR code for my new ticket to photograph. Eat your heart out Amtrak. Simply clicking ‘my plans have changed’ gets an immediate refund on my Chengdu hotel reservation. I do not yet know I will soon receive karmic payback for this smug hubris.

But while we’re still at it, what can I say about this $35 a night find with a view of the river and my own little sitting nook. I will soon wish I’d never left. Best of all the sister/brother millenials-on-the desk who exude calm competency. He even volunteers to take me to the hospital when I inadvertently trip on the stairs.

The only possible flaw is no breakfast. But never fear! The hipster coffee place just round the corner can be followed by Wang Pancake, a delectable yeast-based dough filled with whatever your heart desires and just enough ma la taste for the morning. By the second day I have learned to combine the two.

First up, what else, a Buddha (may I say my last Buddha); this one the actual largest (standing) Buddha in China plus another mountain full of stuff to clamber around. There are many more of us here today, and we’re all excited to learn there are only 284 steps up (only to the feet as we find out too late).

The earlobes will fit two people standing say the same folks who gave us the 284 steps

The Buddha’s toes are also famous and located somewhere down there by the river. The way down is evidently via that staircase.

No-one is prepared to tackle any more steps so I have all the higher up temples to myself

Except for one family. Mom insists on a picture, to daughter’s absolute mortification

There is always a temple too far

People are here to pray as well as rubberneck and there is a Buddhist monk contingent to make sure all rules are followed. Color coordination is important to Buddhist monks, so please note the color coordinated sneakers.He is in charge of ringing the bell, which seems to necessitate a significant cash donation.

(I became solidly cynical about Buddha Inc after my visit to the Tibetan Autonomous region in 2019*).

*A short detour towards Tibet, or: Buddha Inc.

The rest of the monk contingent are in here praying but we aren’t allowed to look or photograph. Pity, their version is surprisingly melodic

My plan to approach the Buddha’s toes from ground level initially seems promising

Only to be thwarted when I’m tantalizingly close. So of course it’s up to the top again

And then all the way down. Needless to say this is the only way out.

And so here at last are the Buddha’s toes. Very big.

Not clear whether this is a Buddhist rule or about historic preservation

I recognize these guys! There were always gangs of them at the temples in Burma sweeping up after the faithful. ‘Are you going to sweep?’ I ask making a gesture. They nod enthusiastically. ‘Due!’ they tell me (right!). Still not clear whether Chinese has words for yes and no.

Meanwhile back on the esplanade by the river, Friday afternoon hell has broken loose.

There’s the erhu player with a bike full of other instruments for later

And the inevitable dancing ladies

Karaoke unbound

The classical orchestra’s piano player definitely ups her game when sees me watching

It’s not all culture, the barbers are out en masse (I was trying to get a snap surreptitiously from behind but he made me come round for a full frontal)

And a lot of this (local) weird card game.

But it’s GO that draws the crowds

This old mister is selling off his communist memorabilia. I notice he’s reading an article about Trump so I make a vomit face and give two thumbs down. Hilarity ensues.

And then it’s tea time.

Leshan is a foodie city, and the epicenter is the conveniently named Food Street. Most conveniently many people are eating on the pavement. My new approach is to cast an eagle eye on their dinners and ask for the same.

It doesn’t work. I get boiled pea shoots and an omelette.

(Aside) The next night nice millenial on the desk recommends a restaurant and tells me what to order. Evidently both are a local specialty.

Closer inspection reveals it to be boiled beef and cabbage. At least I get a beer.

Day two: And 15 miles later

Visitors to Leshan spend the second day at Emeishan mountain, one of the 4 (or 3 or 5) key Buddhist sites in China. At 16,000 feet the two choices are two walk up (in two days) or take a hideous bus ride. I am not going to visit Emeishan mountain. Instead I have spotted a huge expanse of green a hop skip and jump away that appears to be a nice park.

Its a beautiful day and they’re all out. Naughty boys whose dads don’t care if they swing upside down on the fences; bashful boys and dainty girls corralled on the back of the moped or under grandma’s eagle eye; striver moms for their constitutionals; pensioners for a natter. Poor beaux shooting endless photos and wishing they were anywhere else but knowing with the demographics as they are, they should count themselves lucky to be here.

The entrance nearest me is less well kempt than I expect

But clearly official; every so often these motion-activated loudspeakers wake up to shout out a PSA. Is it about littering or the flora and fauna? I ‘ll never know

These folks are collecting water from a turbid ditch beside the road. I have it in my mind they are citizen scientists doing a water quality project. ‘What are you doing?’ I ask. ‘Collecting water’ they say. ‘To drink? I ask. They can barely speak with derision. Foreigners must be nuts; people only drink bottled water in China.

Moms out foraging. When I get close she throws herself on top to hide it from me.

When I emerge onto the official part the trees are in spectacular blossom

I take a detour into a less groomed area

I wasn’t expecting this. But whatever the monkey enclosure encloses is struggling with breeding, so we are not currently invited in. (Things are clearly not going well; the notice is dated 2022.

Back on the main drag, more surprises

Not a surprise that it all ends in a massive snack fest

This time I’ll have what he had works like a charm. The stuffed crepe lady riffs a bit and comes up with a winner

A tactical error in the making. I’ve not completely circumnavigated the park, but wouldn’t striking out through town make the return trip more interesting?

It certainly does but after I’m done Apple tells me I’ve walked 15 miles.

I resuscitate myself with raspberry ice-cream which is neither raspberry nor ice-cream and there’s much less than there seems thanks to the shaving. But the tapioca pearls are delicious, especially after the boiled beef fiasco.

And from my bedroom window the Giant Buddha and the temple-too-far are strutting their stuff.