Malcolm Gladwell’s day in the sun may be over in the West but here in China the notion that only (a lot of) practice makes perfect is considered banal to say the least. Ah yes, but will it be art? I too, Ai Wei Wei excluded, am a total snob about Chinese contemporary art. So what better way to spend a day than reinforcing these prejudices at its epicenter in the nation’s capital? Two subway rides and a mere 2 mile walk later here I am at Area 798, another of those repurposed post industrial factory complexes beloved of hipsters world wide.

That was then

This is now. Worrying absence of actual hipsters.

First off, a rather charming exhibit on Dreams. Sadly most of the artists are Spanish. Onward.

Teacher is having his class read the dream sequences off in chorus. Practice makes perfect! They’re doing a credible job but evidently no time for questions.

It goes rapidly downhill from here. I should have been tipped off by the fact the only convenient access is by driving in from the suburbs. The cool kids have gone elsewhere and I will never find them.

I have the distinct feeling this is not ironic.

Hipsters be damned! Let’s try the tangible and intangible cultural heritage on offer at the National Museum of Arts and Crafts.

Settling in for a lifetime of practice

Can’t argue the technical mastery, but left with the thought that just because you can, doesn’t mean you should.

But wait! What’s this just across the courtyard???

Surely the absolute epicenter of both tangible and intangible culture – the Communist Party Museum! Not many takers on this warm Saturday afternoon. The millenials on the gate let me in with dispatch and giggles; the old folk docents inside are deeply disapproving. If they could cover up the exhibits they would.

Now here’s a design aesthetic to get behind!

Conflict!

Suffering!

Resolution!

And here is everyone, well the men anyway, reluctantly enduring a refresher course in something or other. The women and kids are across the courtyard up to their necks in poster paint.

The guide has to shout very loudly to compete with the patriotic music

No pictures of hungry people however. I guess ‘Agrarian reform’ is one way to put it

Enough of officially imposed cultural heritage! What do the people tell themselves? Only another long march around town will tell.

It has become nippy again (the significance of this will be clear later) so the moped duvets have been resurrected.

Remnants of New Year everywhere

Most people are back at work after the holidays, but exercise classes are being taken very seriously

For some reason this is done to rap

The Chinese boomer version of pickleball involves kicking a shuttlecock over a badminton net. Note the clown shoes

Inevitably big brother can’t leave us alone. Remember China is dedicated to universal access. And also to saving us from ourselves.

For some perspective – the dangerous lake in question

Let there be no mistake

But there is room for a little civil disobedience

Yes that is in fact ice in the background

Eternal hope but as yet no fish

Time to move on. Let the Long March begin again. Sayonara Beijing!